Friday, June 3, 2011

Turkey's West Coast: Cruising Along the Aegean

It has been a crazy week. Eight days and 1400 pictures later I'm back but its difficult to write about the million things I saw. Also, I feel a little hypocritical since this blog is called "Travels in Arabia"....Turkey is clearly not in Arabia so you'll have to forgive me for this great sin. I'm filling this blog post with a ton of photos (though its only a small fraction of what I actually have) so I hope this doesn't get boring. Our trip started in Istanbul, but we immediately left in a rental car and headed along the West coast southward. This took 3 days of our trip (this post is about the first 3 days) and over 400 miles. I immediately felt a little bit of pain when we arrived. We got our rental car which was almost on empty. We filled up our gas tank before beginning our trip and it cost nearly 100 dollars! It hurt so much that a part of me died inside. It only costs me 3 dollars to completely fill a gas tank in Saudi Arabia.


The above picture was what we saw for most of our driving. It was beautiful and green with many rolling hills and very nice clean little towns. About an hour into driving we discovered we were going Northwest instead of Southwest....we added a bit of time to our first days journey due to that little mistake! Be careful when using internet map directions, especially when gas is 11 dollars a gallon! We headed to the coast but we needed to cross a bit of water, the Dardanelles. Because there is no bridge they have a ferry boat that takes cars and buses across the water.Above is a picture of our ferry boat. We found it in Eceabat Turkey and it took us to Cannakale Turkey. Did you know that part of Turkey is in Europe and part is in Asia? This was my very first day in Europe but we quickly drove our car on the boat and took a 20-30 minute boat ride back to Asia.


Here I am on the boat. It was a pretty nice ride. I'd never been on a ferry like this before.


Goodbye Turkish Europe!

Hello Turkish Asia!

A short drive out of Cannakale and we arrived at our first stop Troia, or Truva, but you may know it as the city of Troy from Homer's epic, The Iliad. For those who have studied history I think it would be impossible to overestimate the importance of Homer's Iliad throughout the past thousands of years. I studied this in college so it was very cool to visit the actual site.

Above is a wooden horse meant to represent the Trojan horse. The Greeks were finally able to win the 10 year war against Troy by building a wooden horse and hiding inside it. The people of Troy took the horse into their city and when night came the Greeks took over the place and destroyed the city. We got to climb inside this horse.

The site of Troy is actually many different cities over time. When one Troy was destroyed, people would come and build a new city on top of it. If I remember right there are seven or eight Troys here all built on top of the other (which is the case for many ancient cities including Jerusalem) There isn't much left, but above are the ancient walls of the city.

Me in front of the walls. Why did the battle of Troy start? The stories say that 3 goddesses came to Paris and asked him to tell them who was the most beautiful. Paris chose the goddess Aphrodite which enraged the other two. Aphrodite gave him the most beautiful woman, Hellen, because of his choice (but she belonged to another man). Hellen's people made war against Paris and his city, Troy, and the two angry goddesses helped them in this battle. Which is a lesson to us not to be judges in a goddess beauty contest. They get insanely jealous apparently.

This ancient rock I'm standing next to was once the ceiling of a Pagan god in the city of Troy.


Above is an altar to a pagan god in the city of Troy.


The theater area of Troy. Even though the Trojan War was 10 years, Homer's work, the Iliad only covers 4 days of the 10th year of the war dealing with Achilles and his rage. Its an interesting read and had major influence on authors from many cultures all the way up to the present day.



We continued South along the coast for a few more hours before reaching our final destination for our first day, Bergama. We drove for 8 hours that first day (the most we would drive the entire trip). The city of Bergama is actually the ancient city of Pergamum. Pergamum aka Pergamos is one of the seven cities addressed in the Book of Revelation in the Bible. When John wrote the Revelation he was on the Greek island of Patmos. He address the book to seven churches giving them counsel (and a little chastisement to all of them, as well as blessings for those who remained faithful to the end). There was a group of Christians at this city and it is likely a few of the original apostles made a stop here.


Revelation 2:12-17 gives John's full message to the people of this ancient city. He calls this place the seat of Satan. Some scholars think it is because of the picture above. I'm standing in front of what was an ancient pagan temple. There is a hole in the altar where the false god statue stood behind me. Some scholars believe that the priests would hide under the altar and speak to the people as if they were god. Thus "the seat of Satan". When Christianity took root here later, the Christians built a beautiful church over the temple behind me and it is called the Red Basillica. It stands in ruins today but is still an awesome site to visit.


This is a picture of the front of the Red Basillica. Quite the site. It stood at the base of the mountain where the Roman acropolis was.




I bought a new camera for this trip. My new camera takes panoramic photos. In order to see the above picture better just click on it to enlarge (you can click on all the pictures to make them bigger). This is a view from the Roman acropolis and a view of the modern city of Bergama. Its a very nice little city and it is where we stayed our first night of the trip.


Here I am standing on top of the acropolis of Pergamos. The stones on the left were either a part of the ancient walls or an ancient building that used to exist there.


We found a turtle while exploring the acropolis. It peed on Chris' hand when I took this picture.


More Roman ruins of Pergamos.


Me looking at the temple of the Roman Emperor Trajan. Romans believe their emperors were gods.


Another panormaic. This is from the top of the acropolis. You can see the theater of Pergamos to the left and the city of Bergama below. The view from the top was incredible. I hope you like the pictures, but they really don't do the place justice. Plus the weather was incredible.


"Him that overcometh will I make a pillar in the temple of my God" Rev 3:12. Here is Chris standing like a pillar. This is one of the promises God makes to the people of Pergamos if they remain faithful.


A view of the Red Basillica from above and the city of Bergama.


A panoramic of Bergama with the acropolis hill on the left side. This was such a cool little city! When we finished our time in Bergama it was the afternoon of our 2nd day in Turkey. We began our drive to Izmir, Turkey's 3rd largest city and the site of the ancient city of Smyrna, another one of the seven churches that John addresses in the book of Revelation. After being lost in the city for an hour we finally found where we were going. Izmir is huge.


Above is the Agora (market place) of Smyrna. This city is incredibly old but what you see above is about all that exists of the ancient city. The modern (and HUGE) city of Izmir was built on top of the ancient site. Revelation 2:8-11 covers what John wrote to the Christians of this city. Apparently some of the Jews in this city were persecuting the Christians here. John tells them to be faithful and they will be given a crown of life.


Almost immediately when we arrived at the Agora of Smyrna it started raining cats and dogs. We had to hide under a building for 20 minutes so we didn't get soaked (we kind of did anyway).


Hiding from the rain with the ruins of Smyrna behind me. This part of the city is on the slope of a hill. While we waited for the rain to stop the streets started to flood. We counted 20 + water melons floating down the street. Some poor merchant needs to be more careful!


After it rained we walked around the city. We passed this shop and bought some Turkish delight as shown in the picture above. Ever since I read the Chronicles of Narnia I always wondered what Turkish delight was. Its like a gummy kind of cube covered in powdered sugar and sometimes it has nuts. It is actually very very good. I ate a ton while I was in Turkey. We also saw the movie Fast Five while we were in Izmir. We stayed our second night in Izmir at the Otel Saray and the next morning we drove to Ephesus about an hour away.



Below I am standing in the Theater at Ephesus! I've always wanted to come to this city. This place is famous for a few reasons. It was the second biggest city in the Roman Empire with a population of 250,000. It was here that the apostle Paul lived for 2-3 years while he taught the Christians of this city. It is also the place that the book of Ephesians is addressed to in the Bible. Biblical scholars think that the apostle John wrote the book of John here AND it is also one of the seven churches addressed in the Book of Revelation.


Read about the Christians in this city in Revelation 2:1-7. The people here are commended for their faith and patience. They are promised to eat of the tree of life if they are faithful to the end. This city is incredible. Only 18% of this city has been excavated which makes me think it must have been huge. Chris and I spent many hours here.


They do a little Roman show, a gladiator fight, for the tourists who visit this city. It was pretty cool.




Here is the beautiful landscape of the city of Ephesus. Paul would have seen this landscape for years as he lived in this city.


Behind Chris and I is the library at Ephesus. If I remember right it dates back to the 1st or 2nd century AD. Ephesus had the 3rd largest library in the Roman Empire, Pergamos had the 2nd.


A view of the Library. Obviously there is more that doesn't exist today because this was a building, not just a wall looking like the facade of a building.


I thought this was hilarious. These are ancient toilets. This building was only for the rich of the city. You could only come here and go to the bathroom if you were well connected. The guys would just sit cheek to cheek here and chat it up. It was seen as a great thing! Very funny.


Here I am sitting on the ancient toilets where all the great men of Ephesus would go to the bathroom. I feel so honored to sit where they sat.


If you were rich the houses of Ephesus actually had water pipes that drained things from your home. Pretty incredible for ancient peoples.


This was amazing. They exacavated and restored what they could of the rich neighborhood of Ephesus. You are looking at actual disigns on the walls of peoples homes from 2000 years ago.


The rich people would have beautiful mosaics of famous people and gods on the walls of their homes. One of the houses had a mosaic of Socrates.


Looking inside one of the ancient homes.


A bigger view of Ephesus.


A panoramic of Ephesus from one of the two theaters there. Everyone should go visit Ephesus. It is truly incredible.


In the above picture is the city of Selcuk the modern city near Ephesus. You can see a castle on the hill in the background.


Above is called the grotto of the seven sleepers. This is a hill not far from Ephesus. The story goes that 7 Christians were being persecuted for their belief in God. They hid in a cave and fell asleep. When they awoke it was 200 years later and when they entered Ephesus everyone believed in God there. Everyone was amazed by this miracle and when the 7 died they were buried in the same place they slept for 200 years (above). This story is also found in the Qu'ran. Near Ephesus. This is the site of the temple of Artemis. The one pillar behind me is all that remains of the temple, it was one of the 7 ancient wonders of the world. Too bad its gone, it must have been incredible.




A statue of the goddess Artemis at the museum in Selcuk.


After our time at Ephesus we drove back to Izmir for our last night. We spent some time exploring the city. For some reason Izmir (Smyrna) has this random man cut into the mountain. I don't know who it is.


At the top of the mountain in Izmir there is a place called the Velvet Palace which offers an incredible view of Izmir.


Izmir with the flag of Turkey waving in the wind.


Click to enlarge. The city looks big but this is only a small fraction of Izmir. However, this picture should cover most of the ground on which the ancient city of Smyna was. These were our first 3 days in Turkey. I was happy that time seemed to be going slow, great and slow. We'd already seen so much by this point. It was cool to walk to sites of 3 of the seven churches of Revelation and visit the city where Paul lived. I couldn't believe I was doing it! I hope this wasn't boring. I made this post larger but hope to make the remaining posts about Turkey smaller. As far as our vacation went the best was yet to come.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Halfway Through and Weekly Incidents

Greetings from the near center of the world! This week marks our half way point through the semester and I can't believe its almost over. What makes things better is that Chris and I will be taking a 9 day trip to Turkey in a matter of days. I still often have those moments when I can't believe that I live here or that somehow I made myself leave the US to go teach English in a foreign country. I don't know how these things happen to me. There isn't a lot to write this week but here are a few incidents from my life.

A few days ago while teaching, one of my students out of the blue says "teacher, do you like Osama Bin Laden?" I thought to myself how strange of a question that was and then answered back that I, in fact, dislike him. I counter with "Do you?" He said no and that most people here think he is crazy. I explained that usually people don't like those who hijack planes and fly them into buildings killing thousands of innocent people and that if it had happened to them, they would probably feel the same way. A different student then says "But do you know it was him? maybe it was Iran." This line of questioning isn't at all surprising by the way. I told them that I didn't see him do it and I didn't see him make any plans but that OBL and Al Qaeda said "We did it." Not to mention a lot of other evidence. There are some interesting theories and ideas here about world events. Then they begin to ask about Iraq and why we went there. I tell them I don't really have any answers about that. I tell them that most people in America disagreed with that war and that I don't understand it at all. I thought I knew many years ago when I was younger and more inexperienced, but now I'm not really so sure. Things are so....complicated here in the Middle East. There are no easy answers to the very difficult and trying problems that people face in this part of the world although there are many back home and here who think they know a lot. I was commenting to Chris the other day how living here makes me feel like I'm much more in tune with world events. Back home all that ever reached me was the local news and the concerns and events of Utah life. By the way, I usually don't talk about this kind of stuff with my students but sometimes they just blindside me with stuff like that.

The other day I was at the mall ordering a crepe in a somewhat crowded (but small) restaurant. I got my receipt and sat down and waited. I was just letting my mind wander, not really thinking about anything when suddenly 4 bearded men and a security guard entered the place. I knew instantly these were Mutawa, the religious police. They walked up to the guy at the counter and started speaking somewhat roughly to him in Arabic. I realized then that I was at the moment the only one left there waiting for my food. The thought came to me that I was the reason behind this, but I couldn't be sure. They never said anything to me. More somewhat gruff words were exchanged and the guys working there seemed a bit nervous. They then called his manager, Chris came in and I explained what was going on, and I got my food and left. Chris wanted to know what the problem was, so when we finished eating, he went and asked the guys who worked there, and sure enough, it was me causing the issue. You see, there were some women fully dressed in the Abaya (the complete black clothes covering, which is always the case) in the restaurant at the same time. Apparently it was very inapropriate for me to be there at the same time....just in case I started a problem or something? It is an astonishing and incomprehensible thing really. As if I'm going to start hitting on women wearing burkas. You can't tell any features or anything about them. I don't know how they expect men and women to stay separated in these small enclosed places. We just want our food for goodness sakes! I guess I'll have to watch myself more carefully in the future.

This is likely my last post for a few weeks. Wish us well in our travels. Oh yeah! I almost forgot. Happy End of the World Day for those of you keeping up with the crazy people in the US. I hope it was as great for you as it was for me!

Friday, May 13, 2011

Toys: Part 2

As mentioned some months ago, one of my hobbies here is taking pictures of the horrible English found on toy boxes. We come up with some great stuff. Some of the writing is hard to read so I'll write the captions below. Methinks these are some of the best yet. Here is Baby Lovely: Welcome to choose our product!

Robokid: "Technology brings you infinite surprise" Yes it does.

For some reason there are a number of toys that just random words together. Here is:

Wild Belle Focus Girl. She is really focused.

I love two of the captions here. 1. After sucking milk I will PiPi.

2. Press my tummy I cry and say Baby naughty voice.

The angry warning on this box is great. "DO NOT take me away from the dark place suddenly when I am sleeping. If I am woken & cry then put me back in the same place. I will sleep again." Toys that threaten people are great.

Lovely Appearance! Check out the lovely appearance of this baby. What is with the crazy hair? Its lovely.

This baby doll box says "Bounce the baby to hear her laugh and rubicundity" Rubicundity!?

"Make up thing. Complete with everything."

"Wish to have your own dressing table? Have a lot of jewelry at the same time To make up more beautiful with your partner. Dressing table series will make your dream come true.

"When you feed me with milk I give off the sucking sound"

"I can say mum and dad and give out whistle sound"

REST IN BED HAS NEVER LOOKED SO FASHION!!!

Here is Modern Villa. "Owning it is you best choice and the most happy times."

Grows Happily Birthday Cake. Enjoy a happy birthday with you.
This is one of my favorites. "Angelical Beauty." See below for a close up.

Isn't she an Angelical beauty!!?? I don't know why but it reminds me of Cher.


Particularly Witchery. "Collect Specially, unique style, bring you different feeling!" I wonder what the feeling is.

Here is: Cooking Small Genius.

This pretty baby funny toy looks like an 80 year old man wearing an old man hat. Its great. Very pretty.

These Chicz Girls are very inapropriate for Saudi Arabia.

Baby & Me "I love this feeling" "from now on he will accompany with you" What are these feelings they keep mentioning on the boxes!?

Lovely Baby looks a little creepy. She says "Hi! My hair may change the color!" It says "the best welcome gifts for the children"

Baby Gift: Assist to Grow Up!!

This one is great. "Swing your hands with me. Twist your Battocks with me" battocks?

Baby Capricci. "I only pee on my potty" Notice it doesn't say "in my potty." Only on the potty.

Here is Lots to Cuddle Babies, although I see only one.

Here is New Baby Show. It says "Little friends, I'm the lovly baellar little doctor, come to have fun with me!" Baellar little doctors are the worst kind of doctors.

I probably shouldn't put this one on here. Some dolls you press their hands to make sounds or talk or cry or whatever. Well this one is a little too messed up and I can't believe they sell it in this country. You figure it out.


Thats all for now!

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Happy Mothers Day

I took this picture in Jordan a few years ago and I really liked it. I thought I would write a little about Mothers Day in Saudi Arabia today. When I told my students it was Mothers Day I always have that one student that answers back with some superiority that these holidays are bad. In this case one student said "we love our mothers everyday" as if to imply that Americans only love their mothers one day a year. I told them that is silly and that we have one extra special day where we give gifts and things like this to honor our mothers. Most students understand this and I think there are actually many who think the idea isn't a bad one. My students told me the Qu'ran teaches to respect your mothers and that your parents are second in respect next to Allah which I think is great. I gave my students a writing assignment last week to write about one person who they have great respect for. Some of them wrote about their mothers which really surprised me because in Saudi they don't talk about mothers or sisters very much. In fact, its kind of offensive to even say the name of your mother and sisters here. My students told me that in family records they don't even write the names of the women in the family. Here are some of the things that my students wrote about their mothers. I'm including the mistakes they made because I like them.

Yazeed writes:
The person I respect is my mother because she cares at me. When I was a child she took me to doctor quickly when I had a problem. she cares about eating me. When I need money she gives me easily, so far she do that for me. She taught me the important things like the patience, when I want something its hard to got it she tells me you have to wait, it takes time, it takes a more work. She wishes to me the best in my life, she prays for me so that become a good man and stay away from anything that is bad. finally, she wants to marry me a beautiful woman and sees my children. I hope from Allah to saves her to me.

Mohammed wrote:
The person I respect is my Mothers. I love my mother because she is the one who born me. Always she takes care of me. she stayed wake all the time to make sure that I'm ok; she got tired all the day for my comfort. She spent her age to grow me up. When I was a child, she was feeding me. Usually, my mother advice me and help me to give me the good things from her life's experience.

Turki wrote:
My mother, she is the most kindness person on me and brothers. I respect her because she's the one how I can tile her my secrets (I can tell her my secrets). My mother took care of me and my brother, and keep us save in said the hawse (inside the house), but my father keep us save out of the hawse. And they races us. (I like that part)

Abdulaziz wrote:
I respect all people, but my true respect is to my mother because she carried me nine months and she had a lot of Pain when she carried me. she did not sleep when I was sick. She was worried when I in dangerous places. for that I have to respect her. We must respect our mothers because they do a lot of things for us. They taught us how we can deal with people. also they tell us to do the good things. And they tell us to let bad things. So we have to give our mothers gifts for that. Or make party for our mothers to explain the thanks to them for what they do for us.

I was very proud of my students for writing these things. Family really is a big deal in Saudi Arabia. In this country you obey your parents always, even if you are old. My students told me that if you are 30 and your parents tell you not to go some place, you will do it. I think in some cases this could be a negative thing but overall I think its very nice that they do this. So now I want to take the time to wish my mother and my grandmother who will probably read this at some point a happy Mothers Day. I'm sorry I couldn't be there to see you both. I love you and I hope you are well. Do something good for yourselves!